Reference no: EM132220077
Question: COSMECEUTICALS AND SKIN CARE
The term cosmeceutical was coined by Dr. Albert M. Kligman in the 1970s to focus on the ill-defined territory that falls between cosmetic products and therapeutic medications (drugs). A cosmetic is defined as an article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.
Cosmetics do not require premarketing clearance, and it is up to the manufacturer to ensure that the ingredients and amounts used are not subject to drug regulations and that the product is safe when used as intended. Cosmeceuticals bridge the gap between cosmetics and drugs and refer to products that achieve cosmetic results by means of some degree of physiologic action.
Cosmeceutical Classes
• Retinoids
• Exfoliants
• Vitamins
• Antioxidants
• Peptides
• Growth factors
• Skin-lightening agents
• Others
Choosing a Skin Care Regimen
Proper skin cleansing and moisturizing must work in harmony to maintain epidermal barrier integrity and adequate hydration of the stratum corneum. Before choosing a skin care regimen, it is important to consider the skin condition.
There are as many individual skin care regimens as there are products to choose from.
For oily skin types , choose a foaming cleanser with an astringent toner and lighter moisturizer with less occlusive and more humectant properties. For drier skin types , a cleansing milk or cream is preferable with a humectant toner and heavier moisturizer with increased occlusive and emollient effect.
For acne-prone skin , the use of lotions for moisturizing is preferable to creams. AHAs and BHAs are very beneficial in exfoliating the skin and unblocking sebaceous glands. Retinols may also be useful, as well as the anti-inflammatory action of vitamin C serums.
For hyperpigmentation , products containing hydroquinone have been the mainstay of treatment. Other lightening agents such as kojic acid and azelaic acid are beneficial, as is vitamin C serum. Exfoliating agents such as retinol should be used, and daily use of sunscreen is important.
The largest demand for skin care advice is in the realm of skin rejuvenation and the treatment of photodamage and aging of the skin . The daily use of a medical exfoliant such as retinol and an AHA is an important step in any skin rejuvenation regimen, along with the topical application of vitamin C serum. The use of a peptide cream with Argireline and Matrixyl may also be beneficial.
Challenge of Cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceuticals represent the next new frontier in aesthetic medicine and the fastest-growing segment of the skin care industry. However, there are very few peer-reviewed clinical trials for most of these products and there is little incentive to conduct extensive scientific research and studies. There is the concern that if research proves efficacy then the product would no longer be considered a cosmeceutical, but would be classified as a drug and be subject to the rigorous governmental approval processes. The current confusion in the marketplace about cosmeceuticals and the issue of hope versus hype versus fact is likely to remain until new regulations are in place.