How does wave height and relative wave height vary across

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1. Print out each of your 8 nearshore plots showing wave height, relative wave height (Hs, h-1), shoaling coefficient and friction coefficient. On each plot, identify the areas of wave shoaling (increasing Ks), areas of deshoaling (decreasing Ks), the point(s) of wave breaking and the saturated surf zone.

2. In general, describe how does wave height and relative wave height vary across this nearshore zone for each wave setting and what is the relative importance of wave height and period to wave transformation?

3. Describe how wave transformation in the nearshore is affected by wave height and wave period.

4. For each of your 8 plots describe the relative position (onshore, at, offshore) of the breakpoint relative to bars 1, 2 and 3. The position of the breakpoint becomes quite important when we start talking about nearshore morphology and change and we will return to this model to predict nearshore response to different wave events.

2240_What is the role of the outermost bar.png

5. GRADUATE STUDENT QUESTION: What is the role of the outermost bar on the behavior of inner bars? A paper by Houser and Greenwood (2005) is provided to help with your answer.

Reference no: EM13551423

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