How wave refraction can concentrate or disperse wave energy

Reference no: EM13997055

Objectives:

The transition zone between the ocean (or large lake) and land is a dynamic environment. Landforms of the coastal zone are largely the products of ocean waves and currents acting on the shore. Depending on many factors induding the geology of the coastline, the haracter of the waves arriving at the shore, tidal effects, and long-term changes in sea level, either erosion or deposition can dominate along a particular coastal segment.

Variations in coastline configuration and bottom topography cause wave refraction (bending of waves) that favors erosion in some areas and deposition of sediment in other areas.

In addition to wind.driven waves, ocean coastlines are vulnerable to the effects of tides and, in some areas, tsunamis. Tidal effects are especially significant where the coastline has narrow openings. including estuaries• bays, and straits. Tsunamis are relatively rare-but potentially devastating-sea waves triggered by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or submarine landslides. Primarily occurring in the Pacific and Indian Ocean basins, they are capable of producing run-up heights of tens of meters of seawater as the tsunami arrives. considerably modifying the coastal sone. Tsunamis have struck with little or no warning causing great widespread death and destruction, as demonstrated by the occurrences of the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean and the 11 March 2011 Japanese Great Tehoku tsunamis.

After completing this investigation, you should be able to:

• Describe ways in which wind-driven, tidal, and tsunami waves impart energy in shaping shoreline features.

• Demonstrate how wave refraction can concentrate or disperse wave energy.

• Describe the physical mechanism responsible for longshore currents and littoral drift.

Wave Refraction

As waves approach the coastline, they encounter increasingly shallow water. When waves enter water shallower than their wavelength, they begin to Interact with the ocean door. The period of these shallow-water waves remains unchanged so that as the wave slows, its wavelength shortens.

Reference no: EM13997055

Questions Cloud

Prepare a variable costing income statement : Prepare an absorption costing income statement, with one column showing the results if 60,000 units are produced and one column showing the results if 90,000 units are produced.

Discuss therapeutic interventions for antisocial juveniles : Discuss therapeutic interventions for antisocial juveniles; the successes and the shortcomings. Include the short-term and long-term impacts of such therapies and the impacts of no intervention

Fnished developing the documentation for a system : 1) Ray and Jason have just finished developing the documentation for a system your team recently completed. Ray insists that the documentation should be printed in booklet format and included with the system. Jason insists that paper manuals are outd..

Individual benefits of imposing sanctions or punishments : Discuss the significant societal and individual benefits of imposing sanctions or punishments that do not involve removing an offender from his / her family or community

How wave refraction can concentrate or disperse wave energy : Describe ways in which wind-driven, tidal, and tsunami waves impart energy in shaping shoreline features. Demonstrate how wave refraction can concentrate or disperse wave energy.

Prepare the cost of goods manufactured schedule : Show the presentation of the ending inventories on the June 30, 2014, balance sheet.

What is the voltage drop across the capacitor : Just after the circuit is completed, what is the voltage drop across the capacitor? Just after the circuit is completed, what is the voltage drop across the resistor?

What is the force of friction on the book : A 6.1 kg physics book is sitting on the table with no external forces acting upon it other than gravity and the table. What is the force of friction on the book?

What is the role of comments in an html document : 1. SHORT ANSWER QUESTION -- What is the role of comments in an HTML document? Describe the correct syntax to use to add a comment to an HTML document.2. SHORT ANSWER QUESTION -- What are the steps you can take when creating mailto links to reduce pro..

User Account

All Pages